Mavic Freehub

by John Satory September 19, 2007

John shows you what you need to know about your Mavic freehub body.... diagnose, maintain or replace.

 

 

 

Transcript

Okay. I'm going to show you how to diagnose a Maverick freehub body issue and actually how to take one apart and clean it and replace one. So I get a lot of hits on my blog and a request from my, from my podcast. So I figured I'd show you how to do this via video. The way you can tell is going bad is that you grab hold of the whole cassette and you move it back and forth and the more where there is the more movement there's going to be. You'll be able to tell. It's hard to tell on the video but the whole cassette is rocking, not just individual cogs. The whole cassette is completely rocking. So what you do is you get to get your a chain whip. Okay? Cause that's off. This is what a freehub body looks like. Again, this just can't be, what you want to do is you want to go on to non drive side. This is the drive side, non drive side and you want to pull this cap off the end cap.

Okay.

So the side where you don't lose it, you're going to insert a 10 millimeter hex wrench into the non drive side until it engages. Let me take a five millimeter wrench. So the driver's side, and you're going to unscrew this

Part here

And I have to be careful at the set. The body does not fall off in the paws and Springs go flying, but you're going to remove this. So aside, will you be cleaning it a little bit and you're going to carefully lift the free whole body and be careful that the paws and the Springs don't go flying. Okay? Free whole body. And I don't know if you can see this is pretty, it's really dirty. But

Here's the

One of the pods and the Springs. You can see how small the spring is and grab the other one too. Okay. Set them aside. We're going to inspect them to see if they're still okay. If there, there's a lot of wear on the edge. We're going to replace both of them. It doesn't hurt to replace both of them anyway. So what you have left is the nose, what they call the nose of the hub and grab a rag, small washer. Then it sits right here on this bearing. So it goes between this bearing and the free whole body. Okay. When you put it back in.

Okay.

So we're going to clean this out really good. Okay. So we're going to clean this off. Once you get a lot of the grease outs, what'd you do? Remove carefully the gasket. And a lot of times this is still good. You just have to clean it up really good. Be careful you don't carry it.

He shouldn't be dry or cracked or anything. Okay. So we're going to set this side and clean that really clean the inside, this part of the hub. Really good. What wears down that nylon bushing, which is, let's see how it's really gunked up if I can find the camera here, as opposed to here's a new one. Okay. And what actually wears is the thickness. This thickness right here where, so the inside diameter increases just from where. Okay. And what actually wears this nylon bushing down is actually a debris that gets in there, contaminants, that it's very abrasive and it actually grinds away that nylon bushing. And if it's, if it gets really bad, it will actually grind away and decrease the outside diameter of this nose part that the pushing rides on. It's not a bad design, it's just something that has to be maintained.

This doesn't happen that often, that often, but it does happen. So the reason, I mean if, if it wasn't worn and you work in the, the the play, the side play, what you want to do is really clean this up really good. You can use you can use some rubbing alcohol, clean it up, get and try to keep anything away from the bearing inside there. Cause the bearing is not well, technically you asked Maverick. They say that the bearing isn't replaceable, but it does, it takes a lot for that bearing to go bad. So you want to clean that up. But in this case, we're not going to be using this anymore. And what I'm to do is with these paws and Springs to get a better look at them at the condition and when to actually want to put all these small parts in my parts washer, my ultrasonic parts washer, and I'll be right back.

Just for your info. This is a like an Oh three Oh two Oh three Syria MSL, the silvers, the ones that are silver, the current ones, same process.

And it's still quiet. I don't see any cracks or Nixon it. So this is still good to go. There's no need to to replace this. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to, but a little bit of a Pedro is road rage, which is a mineral oil based loop. This is what the Mavericks service center here in the U S uses. It's it's the same thing as the magic mineral oil that they spec and put it just a little bit, a little bit at the bottom there. I like to do it to kind of create a little bit of a seal in carefully sliding this on here. Be careful not to gouge that surface at the nylon bushing rides on. Make sure that she did really good just like that. Okay. And caps clean, kind of see how small these parts are. I don't know if you can really pick it up. That's why you really have to be careful with these Springs doesn't take much to lose them. Since the cost is minimal, I'm going to, I'm going to use fresh pause and matter. Doesn't recommend using a

Race.

So what we're going to do is take a spring, Paul. Sometimes it's easier to put it on and the, there's a protruding part that the spring will sit on.

Make sure you said that. Spring in to the, there's a little hole for the end of the spring, grabbed the other Paul and another new spring. So we're going to install this second of Tupac. So you have a pretty clean system here. Pause or installed where they're supposed to be. Okay. At this point or willing to just put a little bit of, you don't have to go crazy with this mineral oil. Little bit on the pause and the Springs was stole. The spacer on the top of this bearing. Take the free whole body. Gently lower it down to the nose of the hub. Depress the pause. Don't force it. It will a drop. Okay, so it's all the way on there. Now can you take this end of the axle, which is a little bit of grease on there. It's still a little bit, a little bit of Loctite left on it, but you're gonna insert it here. You're gonna thread it in. Okay, next, take the 10 millimeter inserted in the non drive side where it engages five millimeter. Snug this up. You don't have to go crazy with it. Reinstall the end cap and then drive side.

You're good to go.

So that's how you diagnose. Remove, clean, replace a Maverick free hot body. Now if you want to avoid or you want to get longer life out of these, these will wear, but you can get longer life. These, if you keep these clean, the cleaner you keep, keep them the longer they'll last. But you know, it's, these are, you know, pro quality, race, race, weight wheels, and they're still one of the best wheels out here, but they just need to be maintained. And thanks for watching.